Auto Calculators

Car maintenance tracker

Set your odometer and annual miles. Track 12 key services. Items overdue show in red, due-soon in amber. No signup, saves locally.

Set your current odometer, then mark each service "Done at" the mileage it was last performed. Overdue items show in red.

Oil & filter

Not yet

Synthetic, every 7.5–10K mi (5K for severe service). Typical cost $55–$110.

Interval: 7,500 mi
Last done: Never logged
Next due: 7,500 mi · in 7,500 mi (7.5 mo)

Tire rotation

Not yet

Every 7,500 mi to equalize wear. Often free with oil change. Typical cost $20–$40.

Interval: 7,500 mi
Last done: Never logged
Next due: 7,500 mi · in 7,500 mi (7.5 mo)

Engine air filter

Not yet

Every 30K mi — more often in dusty regions. Typical cost $25–$50.

Interval: 30,000 mi
Last done: Never logged
Next due: 30,000 mi · in 15,000 mi (15.0 mo)

Cabin air filter

Not yet

Every 15–25K mi. Easy DIY on most cars. Typical cost $20–$40.

Interval: 25,000 mi
Last done: Never logged
Next due: 25,000 mi · in 5,000 mi (5.0 mo)

Brake fluid flush

Not yet

Every 2 years or 30K mi — prevents corrosion in ABS components. Typical cost $90–$150.

Interval: 30,000 mi
Last done: Never logged
Next due: 30,000 mi · in 15,000 mi (15.0 mo)

Tire set

Not yet

All-seasons last 40–50K mi. Performance tires 25–35K. Typical cost $600–$1,400.

Interval: 45,000 mi
Last done: Never logged
Next due: 45,000 mi · in 45,000 mi (45.0 mo)

Coolant flush

First service not yet due

Every 60K or 5 years — critical for water pump life. Typical cost $120–$200.

Interval: 60,000 mi
Last done: Never logged
Next due: 60,000 mi · in 15,000 mi (15.0 mo)

Front brake pads

First service not yet due

City driving wears faster — check pads every rotation. Typical cost $220–$400.

Interval: 50,000 mi
Last done: Never logged
Next due: 50,000 mi · in 5,000 mi (5.0 mo)

Spark plugs

First service not yet due

Iridium at 90–100K. Earlier for turbos or high-boost engines. Typical cost $180–$400.

Interval: 90,000 mi
Last done: Never logged
Next due: 90,000 mi · in 45,000 mi (45.0 mo)

Transmission fluid

First service not yet due

Every 60K mi on CVTs; 60–100K on traditional automatics. Typical cost $180–$350.

Interval: 60,000 mi
Last done: Never logged
Next due: 60,000 mi · in 15,000 mi (15.0 mo)

Serpentine belt

First service not yet due

Inspect at 60K, replace at 90K+ or when cracks appear. Typical cost $80–$200.

Interval: 90,000 mi
Last done: Never logged
Next due: 90,000 mi · in 45,000 mi (45.0 mo)

Timing belt (if equipped)

First service not yet due

Interference engines only — catastrophic if missed. Chains are lifetime. Typical cost $600–$1,400.

Interval: 100,000 mi
Last done: Never logged
Next due: 100,000 mi · in 55,000 mi (55.0 mo)

Why deferred maintenance is the most expensive mistake in car ownership

The numbers are lopsided in a way most car owners don't internalize. A skipped oil change saves $70. A worn-out spark plug that goes too long damages a catalytic converter, which runs $1,200–$2,400 to replace. A skipped timing belt on a 2014 Hyundai Sonata 2.0T — $700 job — blows the engine and costs $4,500+. Every deferred service is a lottery ticket on a bad outcome. Over 150K miles of ownership, the expected-value cost of skipping scheduled service is typically 4–6× the cost of doing it on time.

This tool codifies the boring version of maintenance: show up on time, mark it done, move on. The dashboard green/amber/red status turns "I think the coolant's fine" into "coolant is 8,400 miles overdue." Once you see a red badge, fixing it takes a weekend.

The real cost-of-ownership math on neglect

A 2018 Toyota Camry with 98,000 miles that has received every service on schedule will sell for roughly $16,800 in average 2025 condition. An identical car that missed transmission service, coolant flush, and two oil changes over its life sells for $14,000–$14,800 because the next owner's PPI flags the gaps. The gap is $2,000–$2,800. That's the math of a single car over a single trade cycle. Stretched over three cars across 25 years of driving, it's $6,000–$8,400 of lost resale directly attributable to deferred service.

What to do when something shows red

Oil overdue

The most common red status. Schedule it this week. Use manufacturer-spec oil (the owner's manual lists weight and API grade; most modern cars are 0W-20 or 5W-30 dexos1 or API SP). At 5,000+ miles over interval, inspect for oil burning and check the condition — if it's sludgy, consider a flush before the refill.

Brake fluid overdue

Brake fluid absorbs water over time. Water reduces boiling point and corrodes ABS modulators, which cost $1,200–$2,400 to replace. A $120 fluid flush every 2 years prevents that outcome. Overdue by more than a year — flush it within a month, sooner if you tow or live in humid climates.

Coolant overdue

Silent and expensive. Old coolant's pH drifts, attacking the water pump and radiator. If your water pump fails, you're looking at $600–$1,100 plus possible engine damage from overheating. Fresh coolant is $120–$200. Easy call.

Transmission fluid overdue

The single most debated service. Modern CVTs (Honda, Nissan, Subaru) need fluid at 30–60K intervals. Traditional automatics last longer but still benefit from service at 80–100K. Skip it past 120K on a CVT and you risk a $3,500+ transmission. Do it at the interval.

Timing belt overdue

If your engine has a belt (not a chain), this is the highest-consequence item on the list. Consult the owner's manual — if it specifies belt replacement at 90K or 100K, do not go past 115K. If you're unsure whether your engine has a belt or chain, Google "[your engine] timing belt or chain." On 2015+ vehicles roughly 65% have chains.

Real-world example: a 2019 Honda CR-V at 62,000 miles

A typical owner after 5 years. Oil changes every 7K at the Honda dealer — on schedule. Tires at 45K — replaced with Michelin Defender 2 for $780. Cabin air filter replaced twice. What's missing: brake fluid flush (due at 30K, now 32K overdue), coolant flush (due at 60K, now 2K overdue), transmission fluid (due at 60K, now 2K overdue, Honda CR-V uses CVT which benefits from service). Catching these three items on this tool turns red-badge anxiety into a $400 weekend at the dealer that protects a $22,000 resale value.

Dealer vs independent shop

Dealer service rates run $140–$180/hour; independent mechanics $90–$130/hour. For routine items (oil, filters, brake fluid, coolant, plugs) an independent saves 25–40% with identical outcome. For warranty-covered items and complex diagnostic work (CEL with pending codes, recalls, TSBs) the dealer is often the right call. A reasonable mix: independent for everything routine, dealer for anything under warranty and anything that requires factory scan tools.

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Frequently asked questions

How do the intervals here compare to the owner's manual?

They match the manufacturer's normal-service schedule for most 2015+ vehicles. Severe-service schedules (short trips, dusty roads, heavy towing, extreme heat) shorten oil and transmission intervals by 30–40%. If you tow regularly, live on dirt roads, or drive sub-10 minute trips routinely, reduce the oil interval to 5,000 miles and the transmission interval to 45,000.

What happens if I skip the timing belt?

On interference engines (most turbocharged 4-cylinders, older Hondas, many Volkswagens, Subaru 2.5 DOHC), a snapped timing belt bends valves and often destroys the engine. Repair cost: $3,500–$7,000, or the car becomes a write-off. On chain-driven engines (most modern V6s and V8s, Toyota engines), the chain is designed to last the life of the engine — but listen for rattle at idle.

My car's dash says my oil life is at 30%. Should I trust it?

Modern oil-life monitors from Honda, GM, and Toyota are reasonably accurate on highway-heavy driving. They tend to be optimistic for short-trip city driving. A good rule: when the monitor says 30%, check the dipstick for smell and color. Burnt smell or dark amber means change now regardless of percentage.

Are dealer service intervals longer than they should be?

Sometimes. Some manufacturers extended their recommended oil interval to 10,000+ miles to reduce total cost of ownership on lease programs. Independent mechanics and long-term reliability data often support shorter intervals (7,500 mi) for engines you plan to keep past 150K. Check Blackstone Labs or Project Farm data on your specific engine.

Is this tool tracking anywhere or calling home?

No. Your mileage and service history save only to localStorage on this device. We have no database, no analytics on your values, and no backend. Export or print regularly if the data matters to you.

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